What we recommend in Istanbul

The Bosphorus fish restaurants are highly recommended by most guidebooks, but Barba Giritli (Abdulezzel Pasa Cad 3, Tel: 00 90 212 533 1866), on the more industrial Golden Horn, is one of the best restaurants in this area of Istanbul with fantastic views of the old city. Highly recommended dish is marinated grilled octopus. Rustem Pasha Mosque, near the Spice Market, is a hidden Ottoman treasure, with beautiful 16th-century Iznik tiles. In the Grand Bazaar, eat as locals do at Arslan (Vezirhan Cad 70; 00 90 212 513 7610) as you will be among shopkeepers who demand a quality lunch. Nearby is Caferaga Medresesi, a 16th-century school on Sogukcesme Sok, now a coffee shop. It makes perfect break from sightseeing.